For example, in 2013, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) was criticised for not including NGOs in its certification scheme that could help its member brands to leverage their CSR initiatives in-line with global goals. More recently, it has had to crack down on companies using its logo who are members but have not been through the certification process. Issues such as this damage not only the awarding body, but also all brands using the certificate, so it remains crucial for companies to do their research and aim to be linked with a certification program that maintains high standards.
From a consumer perspective, the fragmentation of ethical issues in fashion can also be confusing and overwhelming. There are certificates that relate to environmental friendliness of the textiles, such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), those that endorse the protection of animal rights in the supply chain, such as PETA, and others such as the Fairtrade mark that validate human working conditions. In the case of fashion, this could refer to both cotton farmers or those making the clothing.
In my view, these narrower classifications are best used by brands with a strong message around a specific value, which brings together a community of shoppers who share it. However, when using a certificate to promote a product, it invariably draws questions around why other products don’t carry the same promise, and this can backfire on brands that carry garments with and without such certification within their range.
