Welcome to my monthly musing on a life – and business – spent peering into the world of luxury.
Liminal Luxurian is a newsletter written by Chris Sanderson, co-founder of The Future Laboratory. His monthly updates will be shared on our blog, and you can also subscribe via the LinkedIn newsletter here.
My love affair with Indian beauty began with a small jar of Good Earth’s jasmine perfume wax, pressed into my hands by the force of nature that is Bandana Tewari, former fashion director and editor-at-large at Vogue India, now a sustainability champion. The pot was unassuming, the label hand-written in style, the contents a dense and rather unappealing mass.
‘This formula is food grade,’ she explained. ‘It’s so pure you can eat it. But it smells so much better than it tastes.’ She was right – the essence of thousands of jasmine flowers distilled into a rich gunk that when spread on the wrist or neck released the glorious scent that lies at the heart of so many celebrated fragrances, yet is so often a shadow of its true loveliness, integrated in thin synthetic form, due to its prohibitive cost.
In that small gift lay an entire revolution – the threshold that India’s beauty industry now occupies between ancestral wisdom and clinical precision, between village and laboratory, between what was always known and what is finally being proven.
I speak often in this column of liminal spaces – those fertile in-between zones where transformation becomes possible. I have written about the luxury of time, the threshold between experience and metamorphosis, the ongoing transformation underpinning consumer consciousness.
But rarely have I witnessed a market so deliberately occupying the threshold itself as a strategic position. India’s beauty sector has crossed a remarkable boundary.
Where once the aspiration flowed predictably westwards – Indian consumers reaching for Parisian formulations, for the borrowed authority of European laboratories – the current now runs in multiple directions simultaneously. Some 36% of Indian consumers now prefer domestic brands over imported alternatives, according to Mintel – not from nationalism but from recognition; these brands understand monsoon skin, pollution defence, the particular demands of tropical humidity and urban particulate matter.
This is beauty reformulated as climate adaptation, as cultural resilience, as transformation rather than mere appearance. Consider Forest Essentials, operating zero-carbon farms while scaling Ayurvedic formulations that would have seemed impossibly niche a decade ago. Or RAS, bringing farm-to-face transparency to an industry built on mystification. Or Aminu and Plum, democratising science-backed skincare with accessibility that refuses to compromise efficacy.
These are not brands mimicking Western luxury codes with Indian packaging. They are proposing an entirely different grammar – one where neem and centella and sea buckthorn carry the authority that retinol commands elsewhere, where heritage ingredients meet climate-resilient science in formulations that speak to conditions no Parisian laboratory has ever encountered.
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